by Jared Eckwielen | May 29, 2026 | Uncategorized
The Summer Shift: From Fertilizing Plants to Feeding Soil
Every summer, Tampa Bay enters an intense season of high temperatures, rain, thunderstorms, and occasional hurricanes. From June 1 through September 30, Pinellas County prohibits the sale and use of lawn and landscape fertilizers containing nitrogen or phosphorus. This does not mean summer gardens have to go hungry, but it does mean we need to shift from fast, soluble nutrients to caring for the soil system itself. The ordinance exists because all of our yards are connected to the bay.
When fertilizer is applied incorrectly or before heavy rain, it can wash from lawns into storm drains, which lead directly to local waterways. Rain that falls on roofs, driveways, lawns, sidewalks, streets, and planting beds has two basic paths: soaking into the ground or across the surface as stormwater runoff. Once that runoff reaches a storm drain, it does not go to a sewage treatment plant. It moves through a separate stormwater system and drains toward nearby ponds, canals, creeks, bays, and the Gulf.
The fertilizer ban doesn’t mean you can’t take care of your plant health. Summer fertilizer alternatives focus on soil health and targeted nutrition instead of restricted nitrogen and phosphorus. Pinellas County still allows the sale of composts, macronutrients such as potassium, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium, and micronutrients such as iron and magnesium. At the heart of summer plant care is more attention to soil structure, organic matter, root health, and minor elements.
What Leaves the Yard Doesn’t Leave the Watershed
Any loose material in the landscape can travel with the water runoff. Fertilizer granules left on a driveway, grass clippings in the street, soil from an eroding bed, or dissolved nutrients from a recently fertilized lawn can all be picked up during a summer storm. Even fertilizer applied carefully to turf or landscape beds can become a problem if heavy rain moves it before plants have time to use it. This is one reason the ordinance focuses so strongly on timing. During the rainy season, the distance between your yard and the bay can become very short.
Leaching is another pathway for rain water. In much of Florida, including Pinellas, soils are sandy. Sandy soils have large pore spaces, which means water can move through them quickly. That is useful when we need drainage, but it also means a heavy summer rain can push water below the active root zone before roots have time to take up the nutrients dissolved in it. A heavier clay or loam soil has more small particles and more surfaces that can hold nutrients. Sandy soil has fewer of those holding sites. Florida soils are often low in organic matter as well, which further limits their ability to store water and nutrients. In practical terms, this means that a quick-release fertilizer applied during the rainy season may not stay where the plant needs it. Some of it may move downward through the soil. Some of it may move sideways with runoff. Either way, the plant food can become part of the watershed, washing your plant’s food and your money down the literal drain.
Nitrogen is especially mobile. In its nitrate form, nitrogen dissolves easily in water and moves wherever that water moves. Picture stirring sugar into a glass of water: once dissolved, it no longer sits in one place, it moves with the water. Phosphorus, on the other hand, behaves differently because it can bind to soil minerals, but sandy, low-organic-matter soils may have limited capacity to hold it, especially when phosphorus is overapplied or carried off with runoff. That is why the Pinellas ordinance restricts phosphorus unless a soil test shows it is needed.
The issue is not only what we apply, but whether our soil can hold it long enough for roots to use it. Once nitrogen and phosphorus reach ponds, canals, creeks, Tampa Bay, or the Gulf, they do the same thing they do in a garden: they feed plant growth. The problem is that algae are plants too. A small amount of algae is normal and necessary; algae and phytoplankton form part of the base of aquatic food webs. But when too many nutrients enter the water, algae can grow faster than the system can handle. This over-enrichment is called eutrophication.
Eutrophication is the aquatic version of overfeeding. Add too much nitrogen or phosphorus, and algae can multiply rapidly. The water may turn greener, browner, murkier, or smellier until sunlight has a harder time reaching underwater plants. In Tampa Bay, this is a key issue because seagrasses need clear water. They are flowering plants, not seaweed, and they photosynthesize just like land plants do. If algae clouds the water, sunlight cannot reach the blades.
When seagrasses decline, the effects move through the whole bay. Seagrass beds provide nursery habitat for fish and invertebrates, shelter for small marine life, food resources for animals such as manatees, and stabilization of sediments. They help hold the bottom in place and keep the water clearer. A loss of seagrass is not just a loss of plants; it is a loss of habitat, structure, and overall ecosystem resilience.
Algal blooms can also affect oxygen. When algae die, bacteria and other decomposers break them down. That decomposition uses dissolved oxygen in the water. If enough oxygen is consumed, fish, crabs, shrimp, and other aquatic animals can become stressed or die. This is how excess plant food can lead to dead zones and fish kills. The nutrients begin as something familiar to gardeners, but once they leave the yard, they can feed a chain of problems downstream.
Bay-Friendly Summer Plant Care
There are many ways to improve soil and plant health without the use of fertilizers. First, use soil amendments to add nutrients, improve water retention, and add beneficial microbes. The next step is to identify specific deficiencies in your plants. Yellowing can come from many causes other than nitrogen deficiency including too much water or too little water, root damage, high pH, salt stress, disease, insect pressure, or micronutrient deficiency. This is especially true in palms and ornamentals, where iron, manganese, magnesium, zinc, copper, sulfur, or boron may be part of the problem. Targeted minor-element products or soil acidifiers are often more appropriate than broad fertilizer.
In summer, the goal is not to replace one kind of overfeeding with another. The goal is to garden with the watershed in mind. A careful gardener sends less downstream. That is good for the yard, good for the bay, and good for the living edge between them.
Soil Improvement Products
Our first recommendation is often the least flashy one: compost. Black Kow or Mushroom Compost feeds plants while improving the storage system around the roots. In sandy soil, compost adds organic matter, helps the soil hold moisture, supports microbial life, and improves the soil’s ability to retain nutrients instead of letting them wash through after every heavy rain. For beds, vegetables, herbs, annuals, perennials, and new planting areas, compost is a foundation. It works slowly, but it changes the conditions in which the roots are living.
Worm castings work in a similar but gentler way than fertilizer. They are useful when a plant needs mild support rather than a strong push. In containers, vegetable starts, herbs, annuals, and sensitive plantings, worm castings can be mixed into the soil or used as a light topdressing. They add organic matter and biological activity close to the root zone. In a Pinellas summer, that matters. Rather than forcing quick growth with soluble nutrients, worm castings help the plant work with the soil it already has.
For broader soil-building, we offer COMAND Lawn & Turf compost. It provides organic matter and beneficial microbes that support healthier soil biology, improve moisture retention, and help rebuild the physical and biological structure of depleted soil. That makes it especially useful in sandy landscapes where water and nutrients often move too quickly. A soil that holds moisture longer is easier on plants, easier on irrigation, and less likely to send excess nutrients away from the root zone during summer storms.
Many plants do not thrive if the soil pH is too high. Espoma Soil Acidifier to make the soil more acidic. Because soil pH affects nutrient availability, a nutrient can be present in the soil but still unavailable to the plant.
Targeted Plant Support Products
For general micronutrient support, we carry Southern Ag’s Essential Minor Elements Mix. This is the product to consider when plants appear to need mineral correction rather than general nitrogen feeding. It is especially useful when the goal is to address the small but necessary nutrients that Florida soils and Florida pH conditions can make difficult for plants to access.
For palms, we offer Southern Ag Palm Nutritional Spray. Palms are not broadleaf trees, and they often show nutrient stress in specific ways: yellowing, browning, curling, weak new growth, or injury in the spear and newest leaves. Palm Nutritional Spray contains manganese, magnesium, iron, and sulfur and is labeled for palms and other ornamentals to help prevent or correct nutritional deficiencies. Manganese is especially important in palms because severe deficiency can damage new growth.
For more general ornamental and garden use, we carry Southern Ag’s Garden Nutritional Spray. This is a chelated micronutrient spray containing iron, manganese, zinc, magnesium, copper, and sulfur. “Chelated” means the nutrients are bound in a form that can help keep them more available to plants, especially when soil conditions make uptake difficult. This can be useful for yellowing foliage on ornamentals, shrubs, vegetables, and other garden plants where micronutrients are more likely to be the issue than nitrogen.
by Jared Eckwielen | Jan 30, 2026 | Uncategorized
Don’t Reach for the Pruners! Caring for Your Landscape After Cold Temperatures
As I am writing this, here in Pinellas County Florida, we are gearing up for some of the coldest weather we have seen in over 15 years. The last time we saw temperatures dip below 36 degrees and wind chills in the 20’s, was 2010. This is a scary time for those of us in the nursery industry, each of us working to protect hundreds of thousands of dollars of precious inventory before the cold and windy weather sets in. It’s quite similar to hurricane preparation in the amount of work it takes to secure and protect our merchandise. Equally so, homeowners and property managers are worried about their landscapes too. The major investment that goes into the creation and implementation of a unique and beautiful landscape flashes before your eyes as the forecasts begin to look unfavorable.
Luckily, for most landscapes things will be just fine. Plants in the ground fare much better than nursery stock in black pots above ground. The roots are exposed and subject to the frigid temperatures with nothing but a millimeters thick piece of plastic between them and the cold air. So what should homeowners do after the cold weather has come and gone?
The golden rule here is usually, NOTHING. Especially those landscapes with geographically native plant material that are evolved for this sort of weather cycle. Where we can find a little more trouble is for our tropical non native species and also our south Florida native species that may not typically be found this far north.
The “Do’s”: Immediate post-cold action
1. Remove all frost protecting covers. The heat and moisture from the ground below and sun above will heat things up a bit too much for the plants and can cause additional damage.
2. Hydrate Early: Dry, windy air (after any cold front rain) will dry up plants much faster than usual. It’s important to check soil moisture and decide if watering is needed. We prefer deep soaks here.
3. Assess the Damage: Walk the landscape checking out the plant material. Some cold damage is noticeable very quickly for softer tissue plants, others may take a couple days to show. Differentiate between wind burnt leaves (crispy/brown leaves) and mushy/drooping leaves (true freeze damage).
4. Move containers back into their permanent location. It’s important for plants to get back into the sun as quickly as possible.
The “Don’ts”: Common Mistakes to Avoid
1. STOP, Do Not Prune: This is the most critical mistake to avoid. This is because dead foliage acts as an insulation to the living wood below it. Also, pruning stimulates the plant to respond with new growth. This is something we want to avoid in the middle of winter where another damaging cold front could move through causing greater harm to the more susceptible new growth.
2. Skip Fertilizing: Just like how pruning stimulates new growth, fertilizer does the same. And we want to avoid pushing plant material into new growth until Spring season is upon us.
3. No Panic Pulling: Just because the plant looks dead, does not mean it necessarily is. That is why we go through efforts to keep the roots warmer than the air with watering and covering before the cold. Wait until Spring when plants will emerge with signs of life.
What to Expect
Unfortunately, you will expect to see visible damage. Much of it will be considered aesthetically unappealing. And we aren’t used to that in this part of Florida where winter doesn’t always cause noticeable changes to our landscape.
You will see wilted plants, dry and crispy leaves, and even leaf drop. This is normal and will be unsightly at first because it is out of the norm. But in nature, it is completely normal.
Also expect that come spring, some plants may not emerge from the damage and need replacement. Upon replacing, check with your local garden center on some hardier options if you desire.
Landscapes in open, sunny locations will likely experience more damaging effects. Those sheltered by large trees typically see less damage in these locations. Another testament to the life saving power of shade trees.
Plants to Expect Leaf Burn and Drop
| Coffees (all species) | Cocoplum (all species) | Crotons (all species) | Ti Plants | Simpsons Stopper |
|---|
| Sea Grape | Pigeon Plum | Beach Creeper | Christmas palms (adonidia) | Alexander Palms |
|---|
| Coconut Palms | Thatch Palms | Lilies (many species) | Firebush | Wildflowers (Many species) |
|---|
| Cassias | Sages | Buttonwoods | Dune Sunflower | Beach Verbena |
|---|
| Fiddlewood | Gumbo Limbo | Necklace Pod | Geiger Tree | Grayleaf Teabush |
Planning for the Future
I am a big advocate of the need for more trees in the urban landscapes. Not only do trees serve as windbreaks both for cold fronts and hurricanes, but they also protect and insulate from damaging cold temperatures. Check your landscape and see where a nice shade tree may be good to incorporate. Remember: in most cases you are planting shade trees for the next generation.
You can also work to create wind breaks using mixed hedges or saw palmettos. I remember a time in Jekyll Island walking down a nice quiet trail to the beach. I was among dense and large saw palmettos, sand live oak trees, and cedar trees. It wasn’t until the trail took a straight shot to the beach with nothing between me and the waves that I felt the tremendous amount of wind pushing from the Atlantic. The saw palmettos had virtually stopped this wind to the point I had no idea there was so much as a light breeze.
Go into winter with fresh mulch. Two to three inches of mulch makes a very big difference when matched with these cold temperatures. It also brightens up your property on these cool and sometimes gloomy days.
Conclusion
Patience is a virtue in the landscape, especially when rebounding from seriously cold and infrequent weather. Spring in Florida is just around the corner and the landscape is ready and waiting.
Stop by your local garden center to chat with the experts to find some cold hardy plant choices or replacements for any that did not make it. You can also stop by a local extension office to ask some more science based questions or to help identify any issues with your plants.
by Jared Eckwielen | Dec 30, 2025 | Uncategorized
How to Protect Your Palms from Bud Rot During Florida Cold Fronts
In Florida, we are lucky to enjoy a tropical landscape year-round, but when winter rolls around, our “real Florida” landscapes face a specific challenge: cold snaps.
One of the most frequent questions we get at Wilcox Nursery is how to prepare for a cold front. While many plants only need covering when temperatures hit the freezing mark (32°F), many of our prized palm trees are much more sensitive. In fact, for certain species, temperatures below 55°F can be the start of a serious problem.
Here is what you need to know about using copper fungicide to prevent Bud Rot and keep your palms healthy through the winter.
The Science: Why Cold Weather Kills Palms
It isn’t always the cold itself that kills a palm tree; often, the cold is simply the “invitation” for a deadly fungus. In plant pathology, we look at the Disease Triangle, which requires three things to cause a problem:
- A Susceptible Host: A palm tree stressed or damaged by temperatures below 50–55°F.
- A Pathogen: Fungus or bacteria that exist naturally in the environment.
- The Right Environment: The damp, cool conditions that follow a Florida cold front.
While we can’t control the weather, we can control the presence of the pathogen. By applying a copper fungicide, we eliminate the fungus before it can take advantage of the cold-stressed tree.
Which Palms Are at Risk?
While native Cabbage Palms or Saw Palmettos are quite hardy, many popular varieties used in Central and South Florida are highly susceptible to cold-induced bud rot, including:
- Coconut Palms
- Adonidia (Christmas Palms)
- Florida Thatch Palms
- Alexander Palms
The Solution: Liquid Copper Fungicide
To protect your palms, we recommend a Liquid Copper Fungicide. This is available at our nursery in Largo or through our online store.
Application Equipment
- Small Palms: A standard 24oz or 25oz spray bottle is perfect for a few small trees.
- Medium Palms: A one-gallon pump sprayer is more efficient if you have several trees to treat.
- Large/Tall Palms: If you have mature Coconut palms that are too tall to reach, it is best to consult a licensed pest control company for systemic root treatments or trunk injections.
Step-by-Step Application Guide
1. Safety First (PPE)
Copper fungicide is a chemical and carries a “caution” label. Because you will be spraying upward, airborne particles can land on your skin or in your eyes. Always wear:
- Gloves
- N95 Mask
- Safety Goggles
2. Target the “Heart”
We aren’t worried about the woody trunk. The goal is to prevent Bud Rot, which happens at the very top of the palm (the “heart”).
- Aim your spray at the center of the canopy where the newest fronds are emerging.
- Drench the green area thoroughly so the liquid seeps down into the crevices of the budding fronds.
- Work your way 360 degrees around the tree to ensure total coverage.
Note: Copper fungicide often has a blue tint and a slight citrus-like scent—this is completely normal!
3. Timing the Treatment
For the best results, use a “double-dose” strategy:
- The First Treatment: Apply right before the cold front arrives.
- The Second Treatment: Apply again right after the cold front passes (once night temperatures begin to warm up again).
This ensures that any pathogens left over from the first round are eliminated, giving your palm the best chance of survival.
Visit Us for Expert Advice
Your palm trees are a prized investment in your landscape. A little diligence before a cold front provides peace of mind and keeps your garden thriving.
If you have questions about which fungicide is right for you or need more tips on winterizing your Florida landscape, stop by Wilcox Nursery and speak with our staff. We’re here to help you stay one step closer to being a garden pro!
by Jared Eckwielen | Sep 29, 2025 | Uncategorized
Florida’s climate is unique compared to most parts of the country. While northern states often see spring as the big planting season, our subtropical environment in Florida creates different opportunities for success, of which planting year round is one of them! But there are optimal times with slight advantages. The best times to plant in Florida are usually winter and summer, with fall and spring still being good options with careful attention to watering needs.
❄️ Winter: One of the Best Times to Plant
During Florida’s cooler months, many plants enter a dormant or semi-dormant growth state. This has several benefits for establishment:
- 🌱 Lower water needs – Dormant plants require less moisture while their root systems adjust.
- 🌱 Less stress on plants – Cooler temperatures mean reduced risk of heat stress and drying out between waterings.
- 🌱 Ideal for trees and shrubs – Woody plants get time to establish roots before the Spring growing season.
Examples of winter-friendly plants:
👉 At Wilcox Nursery & Landscape, we offer a wide selection of trees, shrubs, and hardy perennials perfect for winter planting. Visit our garden center in Largo this season to get started or our online store with local delivery.
🌧️ Summer: Harnessing Florida’s Rains
Florida’s hot summers may seem less than ideal for planting, but they bring one of the biggest benefits: consistent summer rains…usually.
- 🌧️ Natural irrigation – Frequent rainfall reduces dependence on irrigation systems or handwatering during establishment.
- 🌧️ Rapid growth – Warm temperatures and moisture encourage fast root establishment.
- 🌧️ Best for natives – Plants adapted to Florida thrive in this season.
Examples of summer-friendly plants:
👉 Summer is one of the best times to add natives and tropicals to your landscape. Stop by Wilcox Nursery & Landscape to explore our Florida-friendly selections—all chosen to thrive in our climate.
🍂🌸 Fall & Spring: Good Options with Extra Care
Fall and spring are not bad planting seasons—but they are generally Florida’s driest times of year. With actively growing plants and without steady rainfall, establishing new plants requires extra attention to irrigation, you don’t want to miss a day of watering during these seasons.
- 💧 Consistent watering is crucial – New installations must be carefully monitored to prevent drought stress.
- 💧 Good for seasonal color – Cooler fall and spring temperatures are ideal for planting the fun, colorful stuff. But don’t be intimidated to take on larger plantings too!
- 💧 Mild weather for gardeners – Easier times of year for outdoor projects, take advantage of the cool mornings.
Examples of fall/spring-friendly plants:
👉 If you’re planning a fall or spring garden refresh, our team at Wilcox Nursery & Landscape can help you select the right plants and guide you on proper irrigation techniques.
✅ Key Takeaway
- Winter and summer = most reliable planting seasons (dormancy & rainfall).
- Fall and spring = still good options but require extra irrigation.
🌱 Why Choose Wilcox Nursery & Landscape?
For more than 70 years, Wilcox Nursery & Landscape has helped homeowners and businesses across Pinellas County create sustainable, Florida-friendly landscapes.
When you shop with Wilcox, you’re not just buying plants—you’re gaining:
- Expert guidance on plant selection and care.
- Professional design and installation services.
- A more resilient, Florida-native landscape that supports local wildlife.
👉 Let us help you “Plant Real Florida.” Visit our garden center today or contact our team to start planning your next project.
by Jared Eckwielen | Jun 27, 2025 | Uncategorized
Simple Pruning Tips for Healthier Shrubs and Small Trees
Pruning is one of the most important garden maintenance tasks for Florida homeowners. Whether you’re tending native shrubs, ornamental trees, or hedges, knowing how to properly prune dead, dying, diseased, and disorderly (the “4 Ds”) branches keeps your landscape healthy, safe, and beautiful.
Why Prune Woody Plants in Florida?
Removing problem branches:
- Encourages healthy new growth
- Prevents the spread of pests and disease
- Reduces the risk of storm damage
- Keeps your landscape tidy and balanced
Use the “4 Ds” rule to decide what needs to go:
- Dead: Brittle, gray branches with no leaves or buds
- Dying: Weak, sparse limbs with shriveled or discolored foliage
- Diseased: Branches with black spots, oozing sap, or fungal growth
- Disorderly: Crossed, rubbing, or awkwardly angled limbs that affect the plant’s structure or airflow
How to Make Proper Pruning Cuts
A clean cut is a healthy cut. Follow these simple techniques:
- Use sharp, sanitized pruning tools to make smooth cuts and prevent the spread of disease. Shop tools here
- Cut just outside the branch collar—the slightly swollen area where a branch meets the trunk or main stem. Avoid cutting flush against the trunk or leaving a stub.
- When cutting small branches, make a 45-degree angled cut just above a healthy outward-facing bud. This encourages growth in the desired direction.
- If you’re removing diseased wood, sanitize your tools between cuts using rubbing alcohol or a diluted bleach solution to avoid spreading the infection.
When Is the Best Time to Prune in Florida?
Florida’s mild climate allows for selective pruning year-round, but timing still matters:
- Late winter to early spring is ideal for more significant pruning, just before new growth begins.
- Avoid pruning during extreme summer heat or right before a cold snap.
- After storms, remove damaged or broken limbs promptly to prevent decay or pest infestations.
Final Tip for Florida Gardeners
When it comes to pruning, less is often more. Start with the most obvious dead or problem branches, then step back and reassess. Over-pruning can shock a plant or lead to weak regrowth, so take it slow and give your landscape time to respond.
