by Jared Eckwielen | Dec 30, 2025 | Uncategorized
How to Protect Your Palms from Bud Rot During Florida Cold Fronts
In Florida, we are lucky to enjoy a tropical landscape year-round, but when winter rolls around, our “real Florida” landscapes face a specific challenge: cold snaps.
One of the most frequent questions we get at Wilcox Nursery is how to prepare for a cold front. While many plants only need covering when temperatures hit the freezing mark (32°F), many of our prized palm trees are much more sensitive. In fact, for certain species, temperatures below 55°F can be the start of a serious problem.
Here is what you need to know about using copper fungicide to prevent Bud Rot and keep your palms healthy through the winter.
The Science: Why Cold Weather Kills Palms
It isn’t always the cold itself that kills a palm tree; often, the cold is simply the “invitation” for a deadly fungus. In plant pathology, we look at the Disease Triangle, which requires three things to cause a problem:
- A Susceptible Host: A palm tree stressed or damaged by temperatures below 50–55°F.
- A Pathogen: Fungus or bacteria that exist naturally in the environment.
- The Right Environment: The damp, cool conditions that follow a Florida cold front.
While we can’t control the weather, we can control the presence of the pathogen. By applying a copper fungicide, we eliminate the fungus before it can take advantage of the cold-stressed tree.
Which Palms Are at Risk?
While native Cabbage Palms or Saw Palmettos are quite hardy, many popular varieties used in Central and South Florida are highly susceptible to cold-induced bud rot, including:
- Coconut Palms
- Adonidia (Christmas Palms)
- Florida Thatch Palms
- Alexander Palms
The Solution: Liquid Copper Fungicide
To protect your palms, we recommend a Liquid Copper Fungicide. This is available at our nursery in Largo or through our online store.
Application Equipment
- Small Palms: A standard 24oz or 25oz spray bottle is perfect for a few small trees.
- Medium Palms: A one-gallon pump sprayer is more efficient if you have several trees to treat.
- Large/Tall Palms: If you have mature Coconut palms that are too tall to reach, it is best to consult a licensed pest control company for systemic root treatments or trunk injections.
Step-by-Step Application Guide
1. Safety First (PPE)
Copper fungicide is a chemical and carries a “caution” label. Because you will be spraying upward, airborne particles can land on your skin or in your eyes. Always wear:
- Gloves
- N95 Mask
- Safety Goggles
2. Target the “Heart”
We aren’t worried about the woody trunk. The goal is to prevent Bud Rot, which happens at the very top of the palm (the “heart”).
- Aim your spray at the center of the canopy where the newest fronds are emerging.
- Drench the green area thoroughly so the liquid seeps down into the crevices of the budding fronds.
- Work your way 360 degrees around the tree to ensure total coverage.
Note: Copper fungicide often has a blue tint and a slight citrus-like scent—this is completely normal!
3. Timing the Treatment
For the best results, use a “double-dose” strategy:
- The First Treatment: Apply right before the cold front arrives.
- The Second Treatment: Apply again right after the cold front passes (once night temperatures begin to warm up again).
This ensures that any pathogens left over from the first round are eliminated, giving your palm the best chance of survival.
Visit Us for Expert Advice
Your palm trees are a prized investment in your landscape. A little diligence before a cold front provides peace of mind and keeps your garden thriving.
If you have questions about which fungicide is right for you or need more tips on winterizing your Florida landscape, stop by Wilcox Nursery and speak with our staff. We’re here to help you stay one step closer to being a garden pro!
by Jared Eckwielen | Sep 29, 2025 | Uncategorized
Florida’s climate is unique compared to most parts of the country. While northern states often see spring as the big planting season, our subtropical environment in Florida creates different opportunities for success, of which planting year round is one of them! But there are optimal times with slight advantages. The best times to plant in Florida are usually winter and summer, with fall and spring still being good options with careful attention to watering needs.
❄️ Winter: One of the Best Times to Plant
During Florida’s cooler months, many plants enter a dormant or semi-dormant growth state. This has several benefits for establishment:
- 🌱 Lower water needs – Dormant plants require less moisture while their root systems adjust.
- 🌱 Less stress on plants – Cooler temperatures mean reduced risk of heat stress and drying out between waterings.
- 🌱 Ideal for trees and shrubs – Woody plants get time to establish roots before the Spring growing season.
Examples of winter-friendly plants:
👉 At Wilcox Nursery & Landscape, we offer a wide selection of trees, shrubs, and hardy perennials perfect for winter planting. Visit our garden center in Largo this season to get started or our online store with local delivery.
🌧️ Summer: Harnessing Florida’s Rains
Florida’s hot summers may seem less than ideal for planting, but they bring one of the biggest benefits: consistent summer rains…usually.
- 🌧️ Natural irrigation – Frequent rainfall reduces dependence on irrigation systems or handwatering during establishment.
- 🌧️ Rapid growth – Warm temperatures and moisture encourage fast root establishment.
- 🌧️ Best for natives – Plants adapted to Florida thrive in this season.
Examples of summer-friendly plants:
👉 Summer is one of the best times to add natives and tropicals to your landscape. Stop by Wilcox Nursery & Landscape to explore our Florida-friendly selections—all chosen to thrive in our climate.
🍂🌸 Fall & Spring: Good Options with Extra Care
Fall and spring are not bad planting seasons—but they are generally Florida’s driest times of year. With actively growing plants and without steady rainfall, establishing new plants requires extra attention to irrigation, you don’t want to miss a day of watering during these seasons.
- 💧 Consistent watering is crucial – New installations must be carefully monitored to prevent drought stress.
- 💧 Good for seasonal color – Cooler fall and spring temperatures are ideal for planting the fun, colorful stuff. But don’t be intimidated to take on larger plantings too!
- 💧 Mild weather for gardeners – Easier times of year for outdoor projects, take advantage of the cool mornings.
Examples of fall/spring-friendly plants:
👉 If you’re planning a fall or spring garden refresh, our team at Wilcox Nursery & Landscape can help you select the right plants and guide you on proper irrigation techniques.
✅ Key Takeaway
- Winter and summer = most reliable planting seasons (dormancy & rainfall).
- Fall and spring = still good options but require extra irrigation.
🌱 Why Choose Wilcox Nursery & Landscape?
For more than 70 years, Wilcox Nursery & Landscape has helped homeowners and businesses across Pinellas County create sustainable, Florida-friendly landscapes.
When you shop with Wilcox, you’re not just buying plants—you’re gaining:
- Expert guidance on plant selection and care.
- Professional design and installation services.
- A more resilient, Florida-native landscape that supports local wildlife.
👉 Let us help you “Plant Real Florida.” Visit our garden center today or contact our team to start planning your next project.
by Jared Eckwielen | Jun 27, 2025 | Uncategorized
Simple Pruning Tips for Healthier Shrubs and Small Trees
Pruning is one of the most important garden maintenance tasks for Florida homeowners. Whether you’re tending native shrubs, ornamental trees, or hedges, knowing how to properly prune dead, dying, diseased, and disorderly (the “4 Ds”) branches keeps your landscape healthy, safe, and beautiful.
Why Prune Woody Plants in Florida?
Removing problem branches:
- Encourages healthy new growth
- Prevents the spread of pests and disease
- Reduces the risk of storm damage
- Keeps your landscape tidy and balanced
Use the “4 Ds” rule to decide what needs to go:
- Dead: Brittle, gray branches with no leaves or buds
- Dying: Weak, sparse limbs with shriveled or discolored foliage
- Diseased: Branches with black spots, oozing sap, or fungal growth
- Disorderly: Crossed, rubbing, or awkwardly angled limbs that affect the plant’s structure or airflow
How to Make Proper Pruning Cuts
A clean cut is a healthy cut. Follow these simple techniques:
- Use sharp, sanitized pruning tools to make smooth cuts and prevent the spread of disease. Shop tools here
- Cut just outside the branch collar—the slightly swollen area where a branch meets the trunk or main stem. Avoid cutting flush against the trunk or leaving a stub.
- When cutting small branches, make a 45-degree angled cut just above a healthy outward-facing bud. This encourages growth in the desired direction.
- If you’re removing diseased wood, sanitize your tools between cuts using rubbing alcohol or a diluted bleach solution to avoid spreading the infection.
When Is the Best Time to Prune in Florida?
Florida’s mild climate allows for selective pruning year-round, but timing still matters:
- Late winter to early spring is ideal for more significant pruning, just before new growth begins.
- Avoid pruning during extreme summer heat or right before a cold snap.
- After storms, remove damaged or broken limbs promptly to prevent decay or pest infestations.
Final Tip for Florida Gardeners
When it comes to pruning, less is often more. Start with the most obvious dead or problem branches, then step back and reassess. Over-pruning can shock a plant or lead to weak regrowth, so take it slow and give your landscape time to respond.
by Jared Eckwielen | May 29, 2025 | Florida landscaping, weed control
Summer in Florida means vibrant landscapes, blooming flowers, and unfortunately—an explosion of weeds. The combination of intense heat, humidity, and frequent rain creates the perfect storm for weed growth. If you’re not vigilant, weeds can quickly overrun even the most well-maintained landscape. Newly installed landscapes are particularly vulnerable to the proliferation of weeds. Here’s how to stay on top of weeding during Florida’s long, hot summer.
1. Know Your Enemy
In Florida, common summer weeds include:
- Sedges – fast-growing, low-lying, and spreads aggressively.
- Torpedo Grass – thrives in hot, sunny spots and in almost every landscape.
- Mexican Clover – loves dry, sterile soils. Stays low and spreads quickly.
- Chamberbitter – small but invasive, often found in mulch beds.
Learning to identify weeds early makes it easier to remove them before they seed.
2. Mulch is Your Best Friend
A 2–3 inch layer of mulch not only conserves moisture but also acts as a natural barrier, smothering weed seeds and blocking sunlight. Organic mulches like pine bark, eucalyptus, or melaleuca also enrich the soil as they break down.
3. Weed After Rain or Irrigation
Pulling weeds is much easier when the soil is moist. Roots come out more cleanly, reducing the chance of regrowth. Just be sure not to compact wet soil by walking all over your beds.
4. Spot-Treat with Herbicides (When Needed)
For stubborn weeds, selective herbicides can help, but be cautious—high temperatures can make plants more sensitive to chemical applications. Always follow label instructions and avoid spraying during the hottest part of the day.
5. Stay Consistent
Weeding isn’t a once-a-month job in Florida summers. A quick walk-through of your landscape every few days allows you to catch new growth early. Ten minutes of weeding regularly is better than a weekend of battle once weeds have taken hold.
6. Water Smart
Overwatering not only wastes water but also encourages weed growth, especially in lawns and around ornamentals. Make sure your irrigation system is functioning properly, and water deeply but infrequently to promote healthy roots and discourage weeds.
7. Consider Groundcovers
Groundcovers like Sunshine Mimosa, perennial peanut, or matchweed can crowd out weeds while adding beauty and erosion control.
Final Thoughts
Summer weeding in Florida may feel like an uphill battle, but with the right approach and regular maintenance, you can keep your landscape looking clean, healthy, and weed-free. A little effort now will save you a lot of work later—and your plants will thank you for it!
by Jared Eckwielen | Apr 3, 2025 | Uncategorized
Spring Pruning Young Trees – Oaks, Holly’s, Magnolias and Deciduous Trees
Young trees are frequently overlooked for the first few years of their life, and many people wait until the trees are large enough to cause problems before they think to prune them. However, pruning is just as important for young or small trees as it is for large, mature shade trees. This establishes a strong structure that prevents future problems associated with poor or neglected maintenance. Additionally, it can expedite tree growth by focusing energy on what remains after pruning.
To ensure the successful growth of young trees, we aim to achieve three key objectives:
- Maintain a single, central leading branch
- Establish a cone-shaped canopy
- Remove or significantly reduce the size of any branches that exceed ⅓ of the main trunk’s diameter
Follow these steps to prune your trees correctly:
- Choose the Right Time
- Best Time: Later winter before new growth begins. Additionally, for evergreens you can prune again in mid summer.
- Avoid: Mid spring and fall pruning as it can attract pests.
- Gather Your Tools (Shop tools here)
- Hand pruners for small branches
- Loppers for medium-sized branches
- Pruning saw if you are working with a more established and older tree
- Step stool or ladder to reach the top
- Trash bin or burlap bag to discard trimmings
- Make a Plan
- Study the tree and identify the central leader. This is usually the tip of the tree, but occasionally has competing leaders. Choose just ONE!
- Find the half way point of the tree. Anything below this point will be reduced by 50%, and above this point will be shaped into a cone.
- Identify any branches that are more than ⅓ the diameter of the main trunk
- How to Make Proper Cuts
- Make sure all cutting tools are sharp
- For whole branch removal locate the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the branch meets the trunk) and make a clean cut just outside the collar.
- Cut at a 45 degree angle when possible
- Trying cutting back to a node, leaf or bud of new growth
- What to Prune
- Dead, diseased, or damaged branches: Remove these first to better see the true existing structure of the tree.
- Crossing or rubbing branches: Remove these next to improve structure before shaping begins.
- Cut back branches larger than ⅓ the diameter by at least 50%. Severe cases may see as much as 75% removal.
- Eliminate competing leaders: Eliminate any competing leaders, so that only one main leader remains.
- Shape the canopy into a cone: Next, we will use tip pruning to shape the canopy into a cone that widens gradually from the top to the halfway point.
- Reduce lower canopy branches by half: To maintain photosynthesis while slowing branch growth, reduce the lower canopy branches by half. Over the years these branches will be eliminated but until then, provide much needed photosynthetic power to the trunk and root system.
- Additional Tips
- Prune conservatively, never remove more than ⅓ of the trees foliage
- Encourage branching that meets the main trunk at a 90 degree union
- “V” shaped unions should be eliminated or reduced
- Have fun and maintain branches that may create aesthetic appeal in the future.
Thats it! And you should not have to do much more until the next year.
